Designing and Building a Van Bed Platform

Should I Build a Fixed Bed, Murphy Bed, or Convertible?

Three main options, each with real tradeoffs:

Fixed Platform Bed

The most common choice. A permanent bed at the rear or side of the van. Leave the mattress out, climb in, go to sleep. No setup or teardown required. Underneath is your garage area for bikes, gear, bins, or drawers.

Best for: 170" wheelbase vans with enough length for a bed plus a living area. Full-timers who want simplicity. People who carry bikes or bulky gear.

Murphy Bed

The bed folds up against the wall during the day, opening up floor space for living, working, or yoga. Folds down at night. More complex to build — you need a solid hinge system and a way to secure it in both positions.

Best for: Shorter vans (144" wheelbase) where the bed takes up most of the living space. People who prioritize daytime floor space over storage underneath.

Convertible Dinette

A seating area that converts to a bed by rearranging cushions or folding components flat. Functions as a couch and table during the day, a bed at night.

Best for: Smaller vans. People who need seating for more than two. Builds where versatility outweighs convenience. Tradeoff: you set up and break down the bed every day.

What Materials Should I Use for a Van Bed Frame?

The frame needs to be strong, relatively light, and able to handle the constant vibration of driving without loosening. Three common approaches:

• Plywood and 2x4 lumber: The simplest and cheapest option. Easy to work with using basic woodworking tools. Heavier than alternatives. Use construction adhesive plus screws at joints — screws alone will loosen over time with road vibration. Use cabinet-grade plywood for visible surfaces.
• 80/20 aluminum extrusion: Strong, light, and infinitely adjustable. T-slot profiles bolt together with corner brackets, and you can reconfigure the frame later without rebuilding. More expensive than wood, but the flexibility is worth it for many builders. This is what we use on most of our builds.
• Welded steel tube: Strongest option. Ideal for heavy garage loads or murphy bed mechanisms that need rock-solid pivot points. Requires welding capability. Heaviest option.

Anchor the frame to the van's factory anchor points or L-track mounted to the floor. The bed frame must be secured — it can't shift during driving or hard braking. A 50-pound platform that comes loose in a hard stop becomes a projectile.

How Do I Maximize Under-Bed Storage in a Van?

The space under the bed is prime real estate. How you use it depends on your platform height and what you need to carry.

• Full garage: High platform (30"+) with open space for bikes, surfboards, camping gear, or a motorcycle. Access from the rear doors. Many builds include a sliding platform or drawer system so you can reach items without crawling under the bed.
• Drawer system: Slide-out drawers for clothing, tools, food storage, and supplies. Full-extension drawer slides are essential — you need to access the back of the drawer, not just the front six inches.
• Open bins: Simpler than drawers. Stackable bins or baskets that slide in from the rear or side. Less polished but functional and easy to reconfigure.
• Combination: Drawers on one side, open garage space on the other. This is a popular compromise that gives you organized storage and space for bulky gear.

Whatever you choose, make sure stored items are secured while driving. Nothing under the bed should be able to slide, roll, or crash around. Bungee nets, latched drawers, and bin dividers keep things contained.