A cargo trailer camper conversion takes a standard enclosed cargo trailer — the kind you see hauling tools, motorcycles, or moving boxes — and turns it into a fully functional camper. Kitchen, bed, bathroom, electrical system, insulation, the works.
It is one of the most practical and cost-effective ways to get into camping, overlanding, or even full-time living on the road. And if you already own a truck or SUV that can tow, the entry cost is dramatically lower than buying a van.
We build cargo trailer conversions at Emery Custom Builds in Encinitas, CA, alongside our van conversion work. This guide covers everything you need to know before starting a cargo trailer camper project: what sizes work best, what it costs, what goes into the build, and how it compares to converting a van.
Why Convert a Cargo Trailer Into a Camper?
Cargo trailers have a few real advantages over vans that make them worth considering, depending on how you plan to travel.
You Keep Your Daily Driver
With a van conversion, the van becomes both your daily vehicle and your camper. That can be great, but it also means your camper is sitting in a parking lot while you are at work, and your daily driver is a full-size van.
A cargo trailer separates the two. Tow it with your truck or SUV when you want to camp. Unhitch it and drive your regular vehicle when you don’t. This is a big deal for people who don’t want a van as their only vehicle.
You Can Unhitch at Camp
This is the single biggest practical advantage. Drop the trailer at the campsite and drive your truck to the trailhead, the grocery store, or into town for dinner. With a van, wherever the van goes, your entire home goes with it. With a trailer, your camp stays put.
More Floor Space Per Dollar
A 7x16 cargo trailer gives you roughly the same interior floor space as a Sprinter 170 Extended — about 112 square feet. But the trailer costs $6K to $12K new instead of $55K to $60K for a new Sprinter. That leaves a lot more budget for the actual conversion.
No Wheel Wells
Cargo trailers have flat floors and straight walls with no wheel well intrusions. That makes layout planning simpler and gives you more usable width at floor level. In a Sprinter, you lose usable width between the wheel wells down to about 51 to 53 inches. In a 7-foot-wide trailer, you have roughly 80 to 81 inches of flat floor to work with.
Fully Customizable Starting Point
A cargo trailer is essentially a blank rectangular box. No cab, no factory seats, no dashboard electronics to work around. The entire interior is yours to design from scratch. This makes it easier to build exactly the layout you want without compromising around existing vehicle architecture.
What Size Cargo Trailer Should You Convert?
Size matters more with trailers than with vans because you have a wider range of options. Here are the most common sizes used for camper conversions.
6x12 — The Weekender
Interior dimensions (approximate): 68 inches wide (5’8”) x 11’9” long x 75 inches tall (6’3”)
A 6x12 is the smallest size that works for a real camper conversion. It is manageable for a single person or a couple doing weekend trips, but it gets tight for full-time living. You can fit a bed, a small kitchen, and a compact electrical system, but you won’t have room for a full bathroom or much counter space.
Best for: Solo travelers, weekend campers, hunting and fishing rigs, people who want easy towing with a midsize truck or SUV.
Typical GVWR: 2,990 to 3,500 lbs (single axle)
New trailer cost: $4,000 to $7,000
7x14 — The Sweet Spot
Interior dimensions (approximate): 80 inches wide (6’8”) x 14’ long x 72 to 84 inches tall (6’ to 7’, varies by model)
The 7x14 is the most popular size for camper conversions, and for good reason. It offers roughly 100 square feet of floor space, which is enough for a bed, a kitchen, a small bathroom area, and comfortable living space. Tandem axle models tow more stably and have higher weight ratings.
Best for: Couples, part-time to full-time living, builds that need a bathroom, people who want a good balance of space and tow-ability.
Typical GVWR: 7,000 lbs (tandem axle)
New trailer cost: $5,000 to $9,000
7x16 — The Full-Timer
Interior dimensions (approximate): 81 inches wide (6’9”) x 16’ long x 84 inches tall (7’)
A 7x16 gives you the most room to work with before you start needing a heavy-duty tow vehicle. At 112 square feet of floor space, it is comparable to the largest Sprinter configuration. You have room for a dedicated bedroom area, a real kitchen, a bathroom with a shower, and genuine living space.
Best for: Full-time living, couples or small families, builds with full bathrooms, people who want maximum space without going oversized.
Typical GVWR: 7,000 to 10,000 lbs (tandem axle)
New trailer cost: $6,000 to $12,000
Choosing the Right Height
Interior height is critical for livability. Standard cargo trailers come in roughly 6-foot and 7-foot interior heights, depending on the manufacturer.
- 6-foot interior: Fine for sleeping and sitting, but you will be ducking constantly if you are average height or taller. Not ideal for a camper you plan to spend real time in.
- 7-foot interior: This is what you want for a camper conversion. You can stand comfortably, and after insulation and flooring you will still have around 6’6” to 6’8” of headroom.
When buying a trailer for conversion, always specify the 7-foot interior height option. It is usually a small upcharge and makes a massive difference in day-to-day comfort.
What Goes Into a Cargo Trailer Camper Conversion
The systems that go into a cargo trailer conversion are essentially the same ones that go into a van conversion. The trailer is just a different shell.
Insulation
Cargo trailers need thorough insulation because they have zero factory insulation. The walls are typically thin aluminum or steel over a basic frame. Without insulation, the interior will be brutally hot in summer and freezing in winter.
We use Thinsulate and XPS foam board to insulate the walls, ceiling, and floor. Thinsulate handles moisture well and doesn’t trap condensation against the metal walls. XPS foam on the floor provides a solid, insulated base for the subfloor and finished flooring.
Electrical System
The electrical system in a trailer conversion is identical to what goes in a van: lithium batteries, solar panels, an MPPT charge controller, an inverter, and a distribution panel. The main difference is charging. A van has a DC-to-DC charger that pulls from the alternator while driving. A trailer needs either solar, shore power, or a DC-to-DC charger wired to the tow vehicle’s 7-pin connector.
Typical setups range from a basic system (200Ah lithium, 200W solar, 1000W inverter) for weekend use to a full off-grid system (400Ah+, 400W+ solar, 3000W inverter) for full-time living.
Plumbing and Water
If you want a sink, a shower, or a toilet, you need a plumbing system. This includes a freshwater tank, a 12V water pump, a water heater (typically a Camplux or Girard tankless unit), a gray water tank, and the associated plumbing lines.
Tank sizing depends on the trailer size and how you plan to use it. A 20 to 30 gallon freshwater tank is common for weekend use. Full-timers may want 40 to 60 gallons.
Kitchen
Most cargo trailer camper conversions include a kitchen with a two-burner cooktop (propane or induction), a sink, a 12V compressor refrigerator, and counter space. The wider floor of a trailer gives you more counter and storage options than most vans.
Sleeping
In a 7x14 or 7x16, you can orient the bed either lengthwise or east-west (across the width). An east-west queen bed across the back of the trailer is the most common layout, leaving the rest of the length for living space. Some builds use a convertible dinette that folds into a bed to save space during the day.
Bathroom
A dedicated bathroom with a cassette toilet and a shower is achievable in a 7x14 and very comfortable in a 7x16. In a 6x12, you are limited to a portable toilet and an outdoor shower at best.
Climate Control
A diesel heater (like a Chinese diesel heater or a Webasto) handles cold weather. For hot weather, a MiniFridge or rooftop air conditioning unit works well in a trailer because you have the roof space and the electrical capacity. Proper insulation is the foundation — without it, no amount of heating or cooling will keep up.
Cargo Trailer Camper Conversion Cost
The cost breaks down into two parts: the trailer itself, and the conversion work.
Trailer Cost
| Size | New Price Range | Used Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| 6x12 single axle | $4,000 to $7,000 | $2,000 to $4,000 |
| 7x14 tandem axle | $5,000 to $9,000 | $3,000 to $6,000 |
| 7x16 tandem axle | $6,000 to $12,000 | $4,000 to $8,000 |
Prices vary by manufacturer, features (ramp door vs. barn doors, aluminum vs. steel frame), and region.
Conversion Cost
The conversion cost depends on what systems you include and the build quality.
| Build Level | Approximate Conversion Cost | What’s Included |
|---|---|---|
| Simple | $15K to $30K | Insulation, a small electrical system, simple cabinetry, bed platform, no plumbing |
| Mid-range | $30K to $55K | Full electrical, plumbing with hot water, kitchen with fridge, bathroom, custom cabinetry, diesel heater |
| Higher-end | $55K to $80K+ | All of the above plus upgraded appliances, a larger electrical system, premium materials, custom finishes |
Total All-In Cost
| Build Level | Trailer + Conversion | Comparable Van Conversion (All-In) |
|---|---|---|
| Simple | $19K to $42K | $35K to $95K |
| Mid-range | $35K to $67K | $90K to $120K |
| Higher-end | $61K to $92K+ | $115K to $170K+ |
The trailer conversion is less expensive in total because the trailer itself costs a fraction of what a van costs. The conversion work is similar in scope and cost regardless of whether the shell is a trailer or a van.
Cargo Trailer vs. Van Conversion: Which Is Right for You?
Both options end up with a livable, self-contained space. The right choice depends on how you plan to use it.
| Factor | Cargo Trailer | Van Conversion |
|---|---|---|
| Total cost | Lower (cheaper base vehicle) | Higher (van costs $20K to $70K) |
| Daily drivability | Need a separate tow vehicle | Van is your daily driver |
| Campsite flexibility | Unhitch and explore with your truck | Van goes everywhere with you |
| Drive-through access | Not drive-through, must exit to enter | Walk from cab to living space |
| Stealth camping | Harder to be discreet | Easier to park and blend in |
| Floor space | More usable (flat floor, no wheel wells) | Less (wheel wells, cab intrusion) |
| Highway driving | Towing dynamics, wind sensitivity | Drives like a large van |
| Off-road capability | Limited by ground clearance and length | Sprinter AWD handles mild off-road |
| Fuel economy | Depends on tow vehicle + trailer weight | 15-18 MPG diesel, 12-15 MPG gas |
| Insurance | Separate trailer policy, usually cheaper | RV or specialty vehicle policy |
Choose a Cargo Trailer If:
- You already own a capable tow vehicle and don’t want to buy a van
- You want to leave camp set up and drive your truck around during the day
- You want maximum interior space for the budget
- You need the tow vehicle for daily driving, work, or other purposes
- You plan to camp primarily at campgrounds, BLM land, or established sites
Choose a Van Conversion If:
- You want one vehicle that does everything
- You need to walk from the driver’s seat to the living space without going outside
- You plan to stealth camp in cities or park in tight spaces
- You want a vehicle you can drive daily without towing anything
- You value the simplicity of not dealing with hitching, backing, and trailer dynamics
What to Look for When Buying a Trailer for Conversion
If you are buying a trailer specifically for conversion, here are the things that matter most.
GVWR and Payload Capacity
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is the maximum loaded weight the trailer can safely carry. A conversion adds significant weight — insulation, cabinetry, water tanks, batteries, appliances. A fully built-out 7x16 can easily weigh 5,000 to 7,000 lbs when loaded.
Buy a trailer with at least 7,000 lbs GVWR for a full conversion. Subtract the trailer’s empty weight (typically 1,800 to 2,800 lbs for a 7x14 or 7x16) to get your available payload. If the math is tight, go up a size in axle rating.
Axle Configuration
- Single axle: Lighter, easier to tow, cheaper. Works for 6x12 and smaller builds with basic systems.
- Tandem axle: Heavier duty, more stable at highway speeds, higher GVWR. Required for 7x14 and 7x16 builds with full conversion systems.
Tandem axle is the right choice for any serious camper conversion. The stability improvement alone is worth it.
Door Configuration
- Barn doors: Standard double doors at the rear. Good for access, but they swing out and can be awkward in tight spaces.
- Ramp door: A single door that folds down into a ramp. Great for loading heavy items during the build, and some people convert the ramp into a deck or patio. Heavier than barn doors.
- RV-style side door: Some trailers come with or can be fitted with a standard RV entry door. This is the most practical option for daily use as a camper.
For a camper conversion, an RV-style side door is ideal for everyday entry and exit. Rear barn doors or a ramp door can be kept for loading and ventilation.
Frame Material
- Steel frame: Standard, cheaper, heavier, requires rust protection in wet climates.
- Aluminum frame: Lighter, rust-resistant, more expensive. Worth the upcharge if you are trying to keep weight down or plan to travel in coastal or humid areas.
Roof and Walls
Look for one-piece roofs (no seams to leak) and screwless exterior walls if available. Every seam and screw hole is a potential leak point down the road.
Ready to Build?
If you have been thinking about a cargo trailer camper conversion, we can help. We build trailer conversions using the same systems and quality standards as our van builds — the same electrical systems, the same plumbing, the same insulation, the same custom cabinetry.
Whether you already have a trailer or need help choosing one, we will walk you through the process from start to finish. Check out our cargo trailer conversion page for more on what we offer, or give us a call at (714) 257-5446 to start planning your build.
Email us at hello@emerycustombuilds.com or reach out through the website to get started.